Description of Garment
This 100% wool coat is inspired by World War II and the post-war era. Patterning inspiration comes from Dior’s New Look debuting in 1947. This gives the garment rounded shoulders, a cinched waist, and added fullness to the drape of the coat. To support the fullness of the coat, layers of thin tulle and stiff netting are gathered between the shell and the lining of the coat. Princess lines are found in the front and back of the garment. The center front and center back pieces are full panels with no waistline seam. Color for the garment was inspired by U.S Navy uniforms from World War II, black with white stripes. This inspired the black wool coating and polyester white piping combination. The red lining color was chosen from the U.S flag and the prominence of red lipstick in women’s makeup. The sleeves are two part sleeves to create a forward thrust. The sleeves also have a rolled cuff. Inseam deep front pockets are hidden from view, but are lined with the same red used inside the garment. The coat is single breasted with four silk covered buttons paired with bound buttonholes.
Original Sketch and Final Garment Flats
Construction of Garment
After cutting pattern pieces, each piece got fusible weft insertion to make the garment stronger, stiffer, and last longer through time. After that each piece was thread traced with silk thread to show seam allowances, waistline, lapel fold, and hem. After clipping curves and adding the sleeves, horsehair canvas was hand pad stitched in the shoulders, over the lapel, and in the back as a yoke to shape the garment. The lining and facings were then put in and hems finished.
Mood Board
Description of design method/process used
Pattern drafting and flat patternmaking were used in the creation of this coat. The coat foundation started with taking a set of measurements from the model to create basic patterns. Three muslin mock-ups were made to check the basic foundation fit. The working foundation pattern was then manipulated by using a multitude of techniques to create design patterns. These design patterns went through at least five muslin mock-ups to achieve the right fit before the last mock-up was constructed using a similar wool fabric for fine tuning.
Artisitic Front
Front Coat
Side Coat
Back Coat
Inside Lining
Custom Tag
Inseam Pockets Featuring a Red Lining
Tailoring Skirt
Made from cotton sateen fabric and mother of pearl decorative buttons. The skirt is designed to be high wasited with flare featuring a high to low hemline from front to back. Boning was used in the upper part of skirt to keep structure and fit perfect. The skirt also features two deep front hip pockets and a center back invisible zipper.
Front Skirt
Side Skirt
Back Skirt
Deep Pockets
